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Looking back on a career as a fashion designer in New York City that has spanned almost half a century, Arnold Scaasi sees a progression in his work from intricate cuts to simpler shapes with more reliance on fabrics than on construction. But though all designers must, of necessity, conform to the general outline of clothes of the period in which they work, from the beginning Scaasi concentrated on styles that other people weren’t doing.
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When Scaasi began designing
in the 1950’s, clothes were rounded at the hipline, supported by lots of
net underneath, and accented by panniers and draped effects. It was a
style that suited him and he designed wonderfully creative and exciting
clothes. From the beginning, Scaasi’s designs were distinguished by
intricate workmanship, which came from his training in European couture
and his relationship with American Couture designer Charles James. Couture
elements were perceived in his earliest ready to wear designs, which
quickly gained him a place in the American Fashion establishment.
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He went to Paris to design “other world” embroideries, some made of two inch squares or rectangles of shiny plastic set with glittering stones. At the time, the shape was loose: clothes dropped from the shoulders. Scaasi evolved a cut that formed an inverted V under the bust and then began to flare. It provided some shape and suggested the waistline.
It worked very well for many women, including Barbra Streisand, he recalls.
It goes back to his credo: “clothes must touch and define some part of the
body even when a dress is essentially loose and flowing.”
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